Assembling A Roof, From The Ground Up

Published Oct 20, 20
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Procedure from the point on the blade to the point on the tongueit ought to be 14-7/16 inches (residential roof). Multiply this by the run of the building. We're using 10 feet in this example, excluding the overhang. The resulting figure is 144-1/2 inches. We add 12 inches for the overhang to get a last figure of 156-1/2 inches.

Take a look at the rafter board to identify if there is any curve or "crown" in the board. You need to make this first pattern rafter on the straightest board you can discover. If there is any curve in the board, lay out the rafter so the crown is up or facing far from you.

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( If the crown were to be positioned down, the roof might eventually droop.) Then lay out the rafter as shown on the next page. This example is for a roof with an 8/12 pitchPosition the square at the end of the rafter board, with the tongue on your left and dealing with away from you.

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Mark along the backside of the tongue. This is the plumb cut for the roofing system ridge. Step form the top of this line down the board to figure out the line length, or length of the rafter, less the ridge board. This typically is a 2-by or 1-1/2- inch board, so the measurement is less inches.

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Holding the square in the exact same position as in the past, discount to the side of the tongue. This marks the plumb cut at the within your house wall for the notch (called a bird's mouth) to seat the rafter one the wall plate. Include the length of the overhang beyond this mark and mark it.



In the example revealed this is 12 inches. Cut the rafter at the ridge line and at the overhang line. Then hold the square on the plumb line that marks the bird's mouth. Identify the wall thickness or depth of the bird's mouth cut and make a mark - roof contractors. Cut the notch, first with a handsaw or portable circular saw, and after that end up the cut with a handsaw.

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Continue moving down the rafter and marking plumb cuts, consisting of any odd figures. One technique of laying out rafters with a square is called "stepping off." Make a duplicate rafter from the pattern. flat metal roof. Then lay the rafters out on a smooth, flat surface area, with a 2-by in between them at the ridge line.

You may want to check these on the building prior to cutting the rest of the rafters. As soon as you're sure these 2 pattern rafters are properly cut, mark them as patterns and mark and cut the required number of rafters. If the building has hanging or "fly" rafters for the gable ends, cut them as well.

Ensure you carefully follow the pattern rafter. A variety of years ago I was building a two-story structure. One carpenter set out and began to cut the rafters. He became ill from the extreme heat of the day and another carpenter took control of for the last third of the rafters.

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I don't understand if the second carpenter didn't use the pattern rafter, or merely wasn't as precise, however it was a pricey mistake. The brand-new C.H. Hanson Pivot Square makes the task of setting out a roofing system rather basic. I want I had this tool a number of years and buildings earlier.

It includes its own heavy-duty belt holder that is also created to hold a carpenter's pencil and the direction brochure. The new C.H. Hanson Pivot Square makes it eady to lay out rafters. this quality tool comes with its own belt pouch and has dividers for the square, an instruciton manual and a carpenter's pencil.

Degrees and increase are marked on a blade connected to the pivoting arm. With the typical increase figures facing you, and the raised fence on the right, the bottom represents the base of the triangle (the run) and the right side the altitude (the increase). The long adjustable edge represents the hypotenuse of the triangle, or the line length.

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Merely change the square to the wanted pitch and lock in location with the knurled knob. You can then use the square to transfer the angle for the cut to the lumber. Or you can hold the square in place and utilize it as a tough guide for running a portable circular saw.

Determine the pitch, then you can set a miter saw or substance miter saw to make cuts in degrees that conform to the preferred pitch. The Pivot Square can also be used to lay out pitches steeper than 12/12, along with to lay out hip-valley rafters. These figures are identified on the back side of the square.

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